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Topic: motors for rotary spark gaps(Read 8783 times)


« Reply #5 on: May 24, 2011, 02:16:28 PM »
Hi,
Thanks for the advice.

My mmc is comprised of 10 - Cornell Dubillier 942C20P10K, 0.1mfd caps.
- running a 12kv @ 60ma NST
- Static spark gap w. 6mm gap & sucker fan
- Safety gap between the nst and spark gap.

The caps show no sign of deformity or damage. All the solders look fine and there does not appear to be any breaks on the mmc.  How does one diagnose a dead cap??

One of the crimps on one of my leads from the nst to safety is somewhat loose.  I would think that if the connection is
an issue then nothing would happen at all.

The nst tests out; I can pull arcs from both sides of the case and from each terminal.
I'm thinking that it must be the nst, however, testing looks fine.

Thanks for your help.
Tony

When I power it up, the safety gap fires and that is all.
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TAR

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« Reply #6 on: May 31, 2011, 07:25:28 PM »
Sorry for the delay in answering, I have not been online in a while.   It does not sound like your NST is the problem if you can pull arcs from both sides.  I would double check all of the wiring to make sure there is not short.  You also may want to make sure the spark gap is not too wide.  Make sure you can fire the gap without the capacitors connected.  It addition, you do NOT want the safety gap to fire without any capacitors connected.  You can use a LCR Meter to test the capacitors.  If you do not have one, simply check the continuity between each lead.  This can identify if there is a short in the cap.  There should also be some resistance across the 2 terminals. 

Be sure to join the Tesla Coil Mailing List:   http://www.pupman.com/   

There are many people much smarter than I, who can help you troubleshoot your coil.
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JPGrippa

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« Reply #7 on: May 31, 2011, 08:13:06 PM »
Hi,
Nice to hear from you again.

I had the caps checked on a cap. meter and they're all good.  I'm going to hook it all back together
and see if it was a loose connection.  Spark gap has not changed and it was working well (6mm).

Thanks.
Tony
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TAR

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« Reply #8 on: June 21, 2011, 07:28:28 PM »
I use 3/8" tungsten welding rod on my three-pole straight-gap. I don't see why anyone would go smaller. The  bigger the area , the better heat dissipation and less resistance. 3/8" (or bigger) W welding rod is pretty cheap on eBay and not hard to work.

I recommend keeping moving poles short, however, to keep rotating mass down. The more weight, the more load on  your motor and the more problems, and, possible danger of onee flying off, if it is out of balance. Smile
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tintinteslacoil

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